Note: clay inside bottom of arms, two inches in.
Good idea to do the same at the wrists.
All right, time to get moving on this project…hup hup…
The
art show has begun and we want this tardy, explosive type to get it together,
march in and join his unit in Altona as soon as possible. For this type of
trooper issues we have to go to the basics, boot camp actually, and start over.
A total remake is in order.
We
began the “arms” the other day and they have dried enough now for the next
step. We need connect the arms in an X kind of form. This connection must be
strong enough to eventually bear the considerable weight of the two feathered
hands at each wrist. There is basically one major point of stress and that is
where the arms actually cross. since human arms cannot “sink” into one another
we must compensate. First, we can sink the arms a little. This will be masked by
the sleeves so will not be discernible.
First,
lay out the new arms on your board. Make sure the top arm is level by placing
filler under each end so it lies level horizontally. If it is not horizontal
all measurements will be skewed. Then, since the angles were worked out with
the first piece we will simply simulate those arm angles. Grab two pieces of
wood slats, hold them in a cross formation, move them alongside the model and
adjust the pieces to match the angles of the arms of the model. Make sure you
rest the ends on the table in line with the top edges of the models arms. Now, holding
the slats where they cross firmly, place this correctly angled X over the new
clay arms and adjust them to match. Then make matching scratch marks to match on
the upper and lower arms so as not to lose the angle. Also mark the place where
the arms meet so you can cut a groove into the lower arm so that the top arm
can be attached there fitting into the grove at the correct angle. Cut the
groove just deep enough to go through, or nearly through, the thickness of the
wall of the arm. Because of this cut the top arm will now be a bit lower, you
will have to adjust your fillers on each end to keep the arm level. Attach
using slurry as usual. Also roll clay, pinching it to a thin edge on one side and
firm up the outside by pushing it in (thin edge first) all around where the
arms are connected to one another. Use slurry liberally so as not to trap air
in the process.
Now,
once the joint has set for a bit we need to cut out the center of this joint.
The reason is to eliminate any possibility of trapped air between the two arms.
Also, the clay will be two layers for much of the connected area so is to
thick. Cutting out the center eliminates this problem. To do this simply cut a
hole in the top of the top arm directly over the joint. Cut the edge at an
angle so the cut out piece can be replaced easily without falling through. Now
get a sharp knife and simply cut a circle close to the outer area of the
connection. Let the pieces drop into the lower arm and remove later. When done,
slurry the angled upper cut and replace the piece you cut out. Smooth out the
cut edges and all is well.
Now
roll out flat pieces and place as braces on each under side of the arm as you
see in the photo.
Finally,
lay a long slat at the lower end of the arms (the bottom of the piece) aligning
the ends with the outer bottom ends of the clay arms and with a knife first
mark and the cut, in a plumb line fashion. Make sure the upper arm is level as
if it’s slanted your marks will be off. This angled cut must be 90 degrees
across for the piece to stand straight up. Take your time and get it right the
first time. If you make a mistake no problem, add clay and cut again.
This
is the main structure that bears all the weight and if done right (the boot
camp way) will save you a lot of time and grief. (cracking clay etc.)
OK
trooper, that’s it for today, get this stuff down and you will have a great
foundation for whatever happens in the future.
“For each one should be careful how he builds…his work
will be shown for what it is, because the Day will bring it to light, it will
be revealed.”
1
Cor. 10:13
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